|
|
Watering. Many
factors influence lawn water requirements, and no two
lawns are exactly alike. A healthy, high-quality
bluegrass or ryegrass lawn may need up to 2.25 inches of
water per week under hot, dry, windy summer conditions.
It may require much less when the weather is cool or
cloudy. Turf-type tall fescue may perform well with less
water than a bluegrass lawn, if it can grow a deep root
system. In many cases, however, tall fescue requires as
much water as bluegrass to look good.
Each time the lawn is watered, apply enough water to
moisten as much of the root zone as possible.
Grass that grows on sandy soil must be watered more
often than the same grass growing on clay or loam soils.
Even after a thorough watering, sandy soils hold little
plant-available moisture. They require more frequent
irrigation with smaller amounts of water. Conversely,
turf growing on a loamy-clay soil can be irrigated less
frequently, with larger quantities of water. Watering
less often means more efficient water use because of
less loss to evaporation. It can also reduce the number
of weeds that appear in the lawn.
A sure sign that turf requires watering is a wilted
appearance. One symptom is "footprinting," where
footprints on the lawn that do not disappear within an
hour. During extended dry periods from late fall to
spring, it may be necessary to water every four to six
weeks if the ground is thawed and will accept water.
The most efficient time of day to water is late evening
and early morning (between 10 p.m. and midnight or 8 and
9 a.m.). It generally is less windy, cooler and more
humid at this time, resulting in less evaporation and
more efficient use of water. Water pressure is generally
better and this results in optimal distribution
patterns. |
|
|
Lawn Maintenance
Mowing. The two
most important facets of mowing are mowing height and
frequency. The minimum height for any lawn is 2 inches.
The preferred mowing height for most grass species is
2.5 to 3 inches. Mowing to less than 2 inches can result
in decreased drought and heat tolerance and higher
incidence of insects, diseases and weeds. The lawn
should be mowed at the same height all year. There is no
reason to mow the turf shorter in late fall.
The lawn should be mowed often enough so that no more
than 1/3 of the grass height is removed at any single
mowing. If the mowing height is 2 inches, the grass
should be mowed when it is 3 inches tall. Bluegrass or
fescue lawns may have to be mowed every three to four
days during the spring when it is actively growing but
only once every seven to 10 days when growth is slowed
by heat, drought or cold.
If weather or another factor prevents mowing at the
proper time, the height of the mower should be raised
temporarily to avoid cutting too much at one time. Cut
the grass again a few days later at the normal mowing
height.
Grass clippings should fall back onto the lawn, unless
they are used for composting or mulching elsewhere in
the landscape. Grass clippings decompose quickly and
provide a source of recycled nutrients and organic
matter for the lawn. Mulching mowers can do this easily.
Side-discharge rotary mowers also distribute clippings
effectively if the lawn is mowed at the proper
frequency. Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch
accumulation. If herbicides are applied to the lawn, do
not use clippings in the vegetable or flower gardens.
Keep them on the lawn.
During the mowing season, we regularly check mowing
equipment for sharpness and adjustment. A dull blade
should never be used to mow a lawn.
Thatch is a tight, brown, spongy, organic layer
of both living and dead grass roots and stems that
accumulates above the soil surface. Fertilizers and
pesticides applied to a "thatchy" lawn work less
effectively.
Power raking is a method of thatch removal has been used
for years. Light (shallow) power raking may be
beneficial if done often. Deep power raking of a thatch
lawn can be damaging, and often removes a substantial
portion of the living turf. Used properly, power raking
of wet, matted turf can speed spring green-up by letting
air move into the root zone and warm the turf.
Core cultivation or aerating is more beneficial than
power raking. It helps improve the root zone by
relieving soil compaction while controlling thatch
accumulation. Soil compaction, in fact, is one factor
that contributes to thatch buildup.
Fertilization. Nitrogen is the most important
nutrient for promoting good turf color and growth. Do
not apply excess Nitrogen, especially during the spring
and summer. Over fertilization can contribute to thatch
buildup and increased mowing requirements. Avoid under
fertilization of bluegrass and ryegrass. These species
can become unhealthy if not fertilized properly. Turf
that does not respond to nitrogen fertilizer may be
lacking in other nutrients, such as phosphorus or iron.
The soil should be tested to determine which nutrient(s)
are deficient. Balanced or complete fertilizers contain
various amounts of phosphorus, potassium, iron and
sulfur. They are a good safeguard against a potential
nutrient deficiency. If you leave clippings on the lawn,
these nutrients are recycled from the clippings. If you
remove clippings, this type of fertilizer is
appropriate.
|
|
